Cooking Complications!

I was trying to tell the cook here at the IFHope compound in Jalalabad what ingredients I needed in order to bake a Fresh Apple Cake. All of the ingredients were found except for baking soda. There were at least three cans that read "baking powder" but no "baking soda". That's an essential ingredient for acidic ingredients so I asked him to get some at the bazaar. He came back with another container of baking powder! (Now there were 4). So, I phoned Dennis who was at work at the University and asked him to bring me some baking soda. He also came back with baking powder as he misunderstood my request (now there are 5)! Later, per Dennis' request, a bag of baking soda arrived. When the cook saw it, and tasted it, he went to the cupboard and came back with a tin that said "baking powder" but contained "baking soda"! We both had a very good laugh.

We've had a lot of fun trying to get some things done in the kitchen! His broken English, my hand signals, Dennis' help as well as some of the staff who are able to translate for us. He's a very good sport - probably better than me.
They bought two live turkeys on Tuesday, killed one on Wednesday and I roasted it on Thursday. They don't have yeast bread here so no stuffing :( But we did have mashed potatoes, gravy, squash, apple pie and "pumpkin" pie (actually made from squash). No ice cream and no whipped cream but we did manage to find cranberry sauce while in Kabul which we brought here.
Yesterday I taught the cook how to cook down the carcass and make delicious turkey soup. We enjoyed that for supper last night.
The other day the cook asked me to explain how to cook nearly every recipe in the cookbook that was given to him by an American - all using broken English, Dari, and hand signals! What fun! He's a very good cook and an eager learner. He would very much enjoy attending a cooking school.
(In the picture are Dennis, Jim (his boss) and me at our Thanksgiving dinner)

Wheels, Walls and Women

I have been in Afghanistan for two months now. The time is going very fast. We left Herat on Wednesday to come to Kabul. It was bittersweet for me as I won't be returning there and I came to really enjoy those who work at the IFHope guesthouse there. But, Dennis needs to do some work at the University in Jalalabad - we will go there tomorrow to stay for a week. Meanwhile, when we are in Kabul we are able to go out to very nice restaurants. The other night we had wonderful Mexican food.


Some have asked about modes of transportation here. Most people move about in taxis, motorcycles, scooters and bicycles. Some of the taxis are just regular automobile size, others are vans. However, in Herat many people use rickshaws driven by motorbikes. They are everywhere and carry people as well as all kinds of things. They also function as delivery vans and are usually well decorated. We bought a twin tub washing machine and it was delivered by a rickshaw. At times we will see them loaded up with people. I have NOT ridden in one and they are not allowed in Kabul.

Dennis has a hired driver to take him to work and to do errands in town. A couple of times he took us to Cafe Herat where we had excellent french press coffee in a most eclectic atmosphere.

I have never seen a woman driver. They are surprised that I drive and also own a Toyota Corolla. That's one of the most popular cars here.

On Friday two weeks ago Yaquob and Hekmat took us on a sight-seeing tour of Herat. There are still remnants of ancient Afghanistan.

This fine old 22-arched bridge, Pul-e Malan, is a few kilometres south of the city, visible from the road when driving from the airport. Believed to have been constructed by the Seljuks in the early 12th century, it has survived the floods that have washed away countless other bridges on the Hari Rud. According to legend, two sisters, Bibi Nur and Bibi Hur, collected egg shells to mix with the clay of the bricks, making the structure stronger than steel. It's no longer used for motor traffic, although Yaquoub drove across it and back without any problem. In the Spring the river is very high and flows under the arches.

I'm not sure how old this compound is but it is more typical of Afghan housing in the old days.
They like to build walls around their homes to maintain privacy. It's considered very offensive to look at your neighbors and at what they are doing. It's especially offensive to look at the women which is why they wear head coverings and burqas.

The wife of Shah Rukh, Gowhar Shad, during the 15th century, was one of the most remarkable women in Afghanistan's history. She played an active part in politics. Herat's Musalla Complex & Minarets was her masterpiece. Today, only five minarets and Gowhar Shad's mausoleum remain. The pictures show a minaret and if you look closely, you can see some of the mosaic designs that remain.

I'm doing well and will try to update soon.

Unexpected sights and events

I've been to Kabul and back.  While in Kabul, the tragedy at the UN guesthouse took place.  I knew that something had happened as I heard a lot of action in the skies:  mostly helicopters circling around.  On that day, schools were closed and people were encouraged to stay put - which I did.  On Friday we went shopping at a lovely shop run by an Afghanistan NGO (non-government organization).  The NGO is made up of 1500 women from all over Afghanistan, many who are refugees, others village women.  They make, by hand, beautiful clothing and linens, as well as other accessories.  I was very happy to have heard about it and to be able to find it.  Everything in the shop is made in Afghanistan.  While riding to the shop, we entered a traffic jam in the center of Kabul - not an unusual event.  However, for me, the cause of this one was unusual!  (See the picture.)

Since returning to Herat, the government has closed all public schools and universities due to an H1N1 scare.  There are many cases of the virus in Kabul, which is a very congested city.  There were also 6 confirmed cases in Herat.  The schools are closed now until next year, probably March, since they don't attend in winter - too cold and there is no heat in their schools.  Isn't that crazy?  I suppose it's one way to cut the budget!

 It was cold in Kabul - this is what I saw on the flight back to Herat.  It's still pretty warm here but cools off at night.  I'm enjoying the ability to still work outside in the garden.  Yesterday I thinned the carrots and last night I cooked some turnips.  Today I picked baby spinach which I will have with our lettuce in a salad for lunch.  It's hard to think that it's November!