Wheels, Walls and Women

I have been in Afghanistan for two months now. The time is going very fast. We left Herat on Wednesday to come to Kabul. It was bittersweet for me as I won't be returning there and I came to really enjoy those who work at the IFHope guesthouse there. But, Dennis needs to do some work at the University in Jalalabad - we will go there tomorrow to stay for a week. Meanwhile, when we are in Kabul we are able to go out to very nice restaurants. The other night we had wonderful Mexican food.


Some have asked about modes of transportation here. Most people move about in taxis, motorcycles, scooters and bicycles. Some of the taxis are just regular automobile size, others are vans. However, in Herat many people use rickshaws driven by motorbikes. They are everywhere and carry people as well as all kinds of things. They also function as delivery vans and are usually well decorated. We bought a twin tub washing machine and it was delivered by a rickshaw. At times we will see them loaded up with people. I have NOT ridden in one and they are not allowed in Kabul.

Dennis has a hired driver to take him to work and to do errands in town. A couple of times he took us to Cafe Herat where we had excellent french press coffee in a most eclectic atmosphere.

I have never seen a woman driver. They are surprised that I drive and also own a Toyota Corolla. That's one of the most popular cars here.

On Friday two weeks ago Yaquob and Hekmat took us on a sight-seeing tour of Herat. There are still remnants of ancient Afghanistan.

This fine old 22-arched bridge, Pul-e Malan, is a few kilometres south of the city, visible from the road when driving from the airport. Believed to have been constructed by the Seljuks in the early 12th century, it has survived the floods that have washed away countless other bridges on the Hari Rud. According to legend, two sisters, Bibi Nur and Bibi Hur, collected egg shells to mix with the clay of the bricks, making the structure stronger than steel. It's no longer used for motor traffic, although Yaquoub drove across it and back without any problem. In the Spring the river is very high and flows under the arches.

I'm not sure how old this compound is but it is more typical of Afghan housing in the old days.
They like to build walls around their homes to maintain privacy. It's considered very offensive to look at your neighbors and at what they are doing. It's especially offensive to look at the women which is why they wear head coverings and burqas.

The wife of Shah Rukh, Gowhar Shad, during the 15th century, was one of the most remarkable women in Afghanistan's history. She played an active part in politics. Herat's Musalla Complex & Minarets was her masterpiece. Today, only five minarets and Gowhar Shad's mausoleum remain. The pictures show a minaret and if you look closely, you can see some of the mosaic designs that remain.

I'm doing well and will try to update soon.